Paris When It Drizzles
October 01, 2026
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Galliano debuts at Zara, Saint Laurent bids adieu, and a rainy Vogue Café
CHLOE MALLE
HEAD OF EDITORIAL CONTENT, VOGUE U.S.
@CHLOEMALLE
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Lately, fashion weeks seem to reference different Cole Porter lyrics from “I Love Paris”: In July, during couture, it sizzled; this week, it drizzled. My family came to meet me in Paris for a long weekend, so I wasn’t away from them for such a long stretch—Alice discovered the joys of the Bon Marché, and Artie found Pokémon cards on the Île Saint-Louis. The Paris shows kicked off with a bang with Pope Rihanna at both Matières Fécales and Dior and continued with big bra energy and some rumored final finale bows.
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Galliano for the Galley
Last night after the sultry Tom Ford show, I entered a Galliano-verse replete with a flower market, a laundromat, and several floors of immersive storytelling leading to John Galliano’s first collection for Zara. Dinner was delicious, the work of chef Rose Chalalai Singh, and everyone from Kate and Naomi to diehard Galliano collectors were there to celebrate the Marta Ortega-hosted evening. As soon as dessert—coconut sorbet and mango curd—was served, guests sprinted downstairs to begin shopping, and left nary a gauzy slipdress. I sprung for an amethyst satin bralette, while others went for the frothy LBDs. Vogue had the exclusive on the collection and partnership between Zara and Galliano, and I loved Alexander Fury’s article (yes, it addresses the Met) and Raf Pavarotti’s technicolor images, styled by Olivier Rizzo.
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To the Raf-ters!
Speaking of Raf: The beloved Brazilian photographer has his first large museum exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs—it opens tomorrow, but kicked off with an opening celebration and preview this evening. So many came out to celebrate Raf, from Matthieu Blazy to Rihanna. I was particularly drawn to his series of floral still lifes featuring flowers trimmed into squares, as well as the British Vogue cover story featuring Anok Yai and her mother, which I found so moving.
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No Pain, No Gainsbourg
The Saint Laurent show was a dramatic, cinematic experience, with enormous gilded chandeliers seemingly suspended from the Paris night sky and the glittering (more often that usual!) Eiffel Tower in the background. The show, rumored by many to be Anthony Vaccarello’s last—he teared up during his runway bow while receiving a standing ovation—was a symphony of gold, but the standout fashion moment for me was a surprise performance by YSL muse Charlotte Gainsbourg. No one wears Le Smoking better than Charlotte, reminding me what a perfect outfit a tuxedo is. Today, at a preview of Givenchy’s new collection (showing tomorrow) Sarah Burton presented her ever-elegant and slightly subverted versions of Le Smoking as well.
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Café Americain
Yesterday it rained all day, so it’s a good thing that many designers sent their versions of deconstructed trench coats down the runway this week (Margiela, Chloe, Balenciaga, Dries). Chloé even had full rain hats! Of course, there is no such thing as bad weather if you are prepared: I wore suede Jude mules that sunk into the soggy grass of the British Embassy at the Stella McCartney show, so I was…not prepared. But the sun came out for the Vogue Café, and I got a delicious pain au chocolat this morning on my way to Chloé. Stop by the café through Saturday, October 4th. Tomorrow I’m trying the pistachio croissants!
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In Paris, Say Ouiii
Alice and Arthur Albert made their first visit to Paris, and we had the best weekend exploring the high flying double swings at the Luxembourg Gardens, eating crêpes, waiting patiently for the Eiffel Tower to glitter, and seeing our cousins. Alice decreed Le Bon Marché “like something of dreams—even better than Whole Foods.” Artie mapped his sightseeing based on establishments likely to sell Pokémon cards. We had a perfect scoop of Berthillon strawberry ice cream. Their jetlag meant that no one went to bed before midnight, so while I am sad they’re now gone, I’m… excited to go to sleep.
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Good Golly, More Dolly!
There is a new Dolly Parton museum in Nashville, and we had the exclusive interview with Dolly’s niece and steward of the Dolly Parton archive. Rebecca Seaver’s rediscovery of Dolly’s 1966 wedding dress—long presumed to be lost—was the final impetus behind the creation of Dolly’s Life of Many Colors Museum, which contains fashions from every chapter of Parton’s life, from childhood to recording studio and beyond. I want to make a pilgrimage!
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Regency Exams
I was so excited to see Colleen Allen’s Regency-inspired boleros in her spring collection, which felt perfectly timed to our Jane Austen book club moment. Inspired, Laird Borelli-Persson did a comprehensive edit of all the Regency-inspired runway fashion, and it’s everything I want to wear! I’ve been listening to the Rosamund Pike-narrated Sense and Sensibility audiobook during my trip, and am so excited for our Vogue Book Club screening of the new film and my podcast interview with Daisy Edgar Jones. We have a delightful quiz to help you figure out which Dashwood sister you are—and while figuring it out, you can wear your Doen x Vogue Dashwood nightie.
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The Bra is the New T-Shirt?
As Mrs. Prada confirmed last week, the skirt is the new T-shirt, and Vogue Shopping took this mantra to heart and mapped out every skirt personality you may want to inhabit. I love a statement skirt with a white T-shirt, but it’s been a big bra moment on the runway this season—with conical satin ones at Tom Ford, lacy and frilled ones at Chloé, golden nipples at Schiaparelli, and of course at Prada. Do you dare to pair your skirt with… no T-shirt at all?
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Purple Reign
I loved this piece about the eight hero items and trends we saw all over Milan, from satin pouches to brooches to groutfits! And, of course, the brightest trend: colorblocking, especially red and purple. It started at New York Fashion Week, when my colleagues Irene and Hannah both showed up to TWP in red and purple ensembles, and then I started seeing it all over Milan, including a look adroitly styled by Vogue Italia’s Fran Ragazzi. The Vogue Shopping team did a great edit of how to try the trend. I’m starting with my Zara bralette!
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Has laoreet percipitur ad. Vide interesset in mei, no his legimus verterem. Et nostrum imperdiet appellantur usu, mnesarchum referrentur id vim.
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